Location

 

French Polynesia is located in the Pacific Ocean at 015° S / 140° W about 3'000 nm east of Australia. The islands and atolls are of volcanic origin, probably formed by hotspots of the Pacific Plate where hot mantle material rises from deep within the Earth. They cover a water area of about 4'000'000 km2, with a land area of only a little more than 4'000 km2. In these tropical waters, the reef islands of coral rubble and sand, most of which rise only slightly above sea level, are called motu, and the tidal channels between lagoon and ocean are called hoa.

 

The Society Islands in the far west are the most densely populated and form the economic and political center. The economy is based mainly on tourism, fishing, agricultural products such as vanilla, all kinds of tropical fruits and copra, the dried kernel meat of coconuts.  Most consumer goods are imported.

 

The Tuamotu archipelago borders to the east, with its extension over 15 degrees of longitude and 10 degrees of latitude, it is larger than Western Europe and consists mainly of countless flat atolls. In 1947 Thor Heyerdahl made it here from Peru with his balsa wood raft 'KON-TIKI'. To the southeast are the Gambier Islands, consisting of the remains of the former central volcano, whose fringing reef with numerous shallow motus forms a wide lagoon. The Marquesas Islands to the northeast are the peaks of a mountain range rising from the deep sea. To the southeast are the remote Austral Islands with the hydrothermally and seismically active Macdonald Seamount, which rises from the depths to about 40 m below sea level.

History

Oceania is believed to have been settled in successive waves of migration over the last 6,000 years by people from the Southeast Asian region. The Society Islands, together with the Marquesas, form the Polynesian heartland and stepping stone to Hawaii, New Zealand and Easter Island. The immigrants initially settle on the coast and live mainly from fishing. Over time, agriculture and animal husbandry gain in importance, and cultivation terraces with

 

cultivation terraces with sophisticated irrigation systems, the settlements grow up the steep valleys. The island groups are organized in strictly stratified tribal societies, characterized by frequent warfare among the clans. Witnesses of the original culture are the partially preserved marae, ceremonial and assembly places for religious and political purposes, endowed with high spiritual power (mana) and inviolability (tapu).

 

European records begin with the Portuguese Ferdinand Magellan, who discovered the Tuamotu archipelago in 1521. During James Cook's third voyage to the South Seas, the islands are reliably mapped. From 1842, colonization by France begins, leading first to a protectorate and finally to annexation. In the late 19th century, Paul Gauguin lived on Tahiti and Hiva Oa, but his paintings with Tahitian motifs do not depict the real island world, but rather the dreamed-of South Sea paradise.

Economy

 

Today French Polynesia is an overseas territory with extensive autonomy from Paris, but not part of the EU. A good three-quarters of the population is Polynesian, with former French settlers and French from the motherland making up about 10%, and some mixed ethnic origin. Currency is the Franc Pacifique (XPF), the time zone of the Society Islands is UTC-10. The only official language is French, Tahitian and other Polynesian languages are used regionally. The capital Pape'ete is served from Europe by scheduled flights of Air France and Air Tahiti Nui, the trip takes 2 days.

 

 

 

Weather

French Polynesia has a tropical marine climate, determined by the vast expanse of water of the Pacific Ocean and the prevailing trade winds with lots of sunshine. During the rainy season, from November to April, it is very humid and warm with average daytime temperatures above 30° C. The rather dry and fresher season with 24° to 28° C and less precipitation goes from May to October, the weather conditions are windy and stable, fall winds on the high mountainous islands provide cooling at night. Sea temperatures are between 26° and 28° C all year round.

 

Winds

n the area of the Society Islands the wind blows mainly from the eastern quadrant, from NE to E to SE with 4 to 5 Bft, sometimes freshening to 6 Bft, other wind directions occur rarely and do not last long. On the high volcanic islands, downdrafts, sometimes violent, are to be expected on the lee side of the mountains.

 

While in the rainy season it blows more from NE, the mara'amu from SE is the typical wind of the dry season, which often appears in the months of June to August and reaches 6 to 7 Bft, in gusts sometimes gale force. Between November and May tropical cyclones can occur in the South Pacific, with the risk being highest between January and March. However, the area lies north of the usual tracks and is little affected.

.

 

Tides

Tahiti and the surrounding islands are located at an amphidromic point around which the tidal waves circle counterclockwise. The gravitational pull of the moon is removed, only the sun exerts its influence. High tide is around noon and midnight, low tide in the morning and evening, the water level varies by a maximum of 40 cm.

 

The South Equatorial Current from the coast of Peru towards Australia and Southeast Asia flows westward at the Society Islands at 0.5 to 1 knots. It is influenced by the prevailing winds, deflected near the islands and amplified. On the open sea, the swell is usually between 0.5 and 1.5 m, and up to 3 m at mara'amu. The powerful swell of the Pacific creates a powerful surf on the coast of the atolls, which sloshes over the fringing reef and fills the lagoons. The water can only escape through the reef passages, and the almost always outgoing current, strong and steady, is at most somewhat weakened by the incoming tide. Situations with current against wind can make the passages uncomfortable to impassable.

 

The Society Islands are quite well charted, the reef passages as well as navigation channels in the cardinal and lateral system are reliably buoyed according to IALA-A, but the lighting is more sparse. Within the lagoons there are unsurveyed areas, so one cannot rely on the GPS to avoid running aground. The numerous sand and coral reefs require careful eyeball navigation with the sun behind you. The water depths are not infrequently too shallow (white to light green) or too deep (blue) to anchor, it is best to set the ground iron in the shelter of the fringing reef over sand or silt in 3 to 10 m of water and give as much chain as possible. Outside the lagoons the seabed is steeply sloping, here it is important to take into account the currents between the islands.

 

Since 2002 French Polynesia is a marine protected area, between July and November large groups of humpback whales migrate through the waters. The sailing conditions are excellent and the area is navigable almost all year round. The best sailing season is in April/May and September/October. Because of the long travel time it is recommended to plan rather 2 to 3 weeks..

 

Yacht charter Tahiti - French Society Islands: Current weather and weather forecast from von Windy.com

Yacht charter Tahiti - French Society Islands: Cruise îles sous- le-vent

Cruise - Info Tahiti - French Society Islands - îles sous le vent

Duration: 1 bis 2 weeks

 

Port of departure: Raiatea

The Society Islands form the heart of French Polynesia. The archipelago consists of two groups, on the one hand the îles Sous-le-Vent in the west with the main islands Bora Bora, Huahine, Maupiti, Ra'iātea and Taha'a as well as the shallow atolls Manuae, Maupiha'a, motu One and Tūpai, on the other hand the îles du Vent in the east with the sister islands Tahiti and Mo'orea as well as the atolls Mai'ao, Meheti'a and Teti'aroa.

For safety reasons, the area is basically limited to the high volcanic islands under the wind. The distances between Ra'iātea, Taha'a, Bora Bora and Huahine are hardly more than 25 nm. Thus, taking into account weather conditions and forecasts, the next daily destination can be freely chosen. The Tahiti Pearl Regatta held in May with an attractive combination of offshore and inshore races is open to charter crews.

 

The island paradise in the South Seas promises a stunningly spectacular cruising scenery, from the deep blue ocean to turquoise lagoons, from high volcanic islands with tropical rainforest and rugged mountains rising majestically from the sea, to flat motus with white sandy beaches and coconut palms.

In the crystal clear waters sheltering the fringing reefs, the dark Tahitian pearls are cultured from the black-lipped pearl oyster. They have a typical green, blue or eggplant shimmer. Most pearl farms have guest buoys laid out where you may stay overnight before or after visiting them. And the same goes for some restaurants where you can dine with pleasure.

 

The vast majority of charter yachts are moored in Ra'iātea, and the cruise departs from Marina Āpo'oiti or Marina Uturoa,

On the way in French Polynesia anchoring is the main part of the program, other marinas are few and far between. Provisioning takes place in Uturoa, next to the market hall with fish, vegetables and fruits there are smaller grocery stores as well as a supermarket. And fuel as well as water are only available here and on Taha'a and Bora Bora. As soon as the ship is taken over and everything is stowed, it's time to "cast off".

Mooring buoys are available at motu Aito, in the bays of Fa'aroa, Ōpoa, Hotopu'u and Tuatau. Good anchorages can be found, for example, at the eastern motus Taoru, Tipaemau and Oatara or the western motus Toamaro or Tahunaoe. The mouth of the mangrove river in the deep bay of Fa'aroa can be explored by dinghy (rowing only), kayak or SUP. For those who like hiking, climb up Tapioi from Uturoa or take excursions into the island's interior accompanied by a local guide.

Raiatea, cradle of the Polynesian culture

Ra'iātea is considered the cradle of Polynesian culture, one of whose most important witnesses is the marae Taputapuātea - a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017. The place of worship, at the same time a spiritual and political center of power, is located directly on the sea opposite the sacred passe Te ava mo'a, the gateway for high visitors. This can be used for sailing in calm weather, but is very difficult to locate seaward. Main reef crossings and practicable in all weather are the passe Rautoanui on the west side and the passe Teavapiti on the east side, as well as the more southerly passe Iriru, which is more advantageous for approaching Huahine when the wind is from the SE.

 

Ra'iātea and Taha'a are surrounded by a common fringing reef, and their lagoons are the only ones that are almost continuously navigable. A narrow sound with an extensive reef separates the two islands. East of it, the inland lagoon Moemoea ("dream" in Tahitian) is indeed a fantastic and quiet anchorage, but the tricky access is reserved for experienced sailors in good light conditions.

 

Taha'a the island of vanilla

The aromatic Tahitian vanilla is grown on Taha'a. The circular island with its deep bays can be circumnavigated without leaving the lagoon. Mooring buoys are laid out at the village of Pātio and in the bays of Ha'amene, Fa'a'aha, Vaiorera, Tapu'amu, Apu and Toerauroa.

Among the most beautiful and safe anchorages are the sandy grounds at motu Mahaea to the east and opposite the church of Tiva to the west. In the northern part of the lagoon there are many corals, here you have to navigate carefully and stay exactly in the fairway. At the 3 red beacons you can make a stop during the day and swim out with the dinghy to the many motus, with great and little visited snorkeling spots. From Ha'amene there are several hiking trails, in the bay of Hurepiti it is worth to join the Vanilla Tour with insight into the botanical treasures of the island.

Taha'a has only two reef passages, if you want to go to Huahine, take the well marked passe Toahatu on the east side, on the west side you go through the passe Paipai to Bora Bora or Maupiti. In rough weather, it is recommended to use the passe Rautoanui at Pūfau on Ra'iātea.

 

Huahine

Against the prevailing winds, about 25 nm to the east of Ra'iātea and Taha'a, you will encounter Huahine, consisting of two central volcanic islands separated only by a narrow shallow channel. Spared the excesses of modernity, the picturesque villages, lush and wild landscapes still most closely convey the slow pace of ancient Polynesia. It's worth taking a day out on Huahine to explore the island. At Maeva, there are numerous well-preserved marae along the lake. At the end of October, the Hawaiki nui va'a from Huahine to Bora Bora is held on Polynesian outrigger canoes. It is considered the toughest but also the most beautiful race of its kind.

The western lagoon can be reached via the passe Avamoa or the passe Avapehi, both wide and deep and always practicable. Mooring buoys are laid out at the main village of Fare, at Hana Iti and Ha'apū. Port Bourayne is a very nice bay, shielded from the roar of the waves breaking on the fringing reef. Here you can anchor in the silt or set the ground iron on the south side of motu Vairoa. The highlight is the bay of Avea, ideal for snorkeling, which offers good protection even in strong mara'amu. The eastern lagoon is less attractive because mostly exposed to wind and waves, the deep and wild bay of Mārō'ē is accessible via the passe Farerea.

 

Bora Bora the dream pearl of the Pacific Ocean

Bora Bora, located about 25 nm west of Ra'iātea and Taha'a, is coveted as a dream destination and pearl of the South Seas and is very touristy, with exclusive and luxurious hotel bungalows spread on stilts over the beautiful lagoon.

spread out. The island consists mostly of basaltic lava, and the caldera of the central volcano has already sunk. Only parts of the eroded crater rim, the steep summit of Otemanu or motu To'opua, still rise from the sea.

The Passe Teavanui on the west side is the only reef passage, and the main town of Vaitāpē has a lot of shipping traffic and is also visited by cruise ships. For swimming, it is recommended to visit rather secluded bays. Mooring is possible at the small jetty of Mai Kai Marina in Vaitāpē or at the buoys provided for navigators by Bora Bora Yacht Club in Fa'atahi Bay and Bloody Mary's Yacht Club in Povai Bay. There is a very nice anchorage area outside the fairway on the west shore of motu To'opua with great snorkeling on the reef and the chance to spot sharks or manta rays. Somewhat more isolated is Pointe Tā'ihi and north of the motu Temahu.

The eastern part of the lagoon is shallow, but with the necessary caution this spectacular scenery can be navigated.

Several marae line Fa'anui Bay, which is well protected at mara'amu, but you must anchor close under the shore and expect heavy downbursts.

 

The island of Tupai

A good 10 nm north of Bora Bora, Tūpai consists of a few motus with coconut palms, many seabirds and an inaccessible lagoon. Nevertheless, a day trip to this uninhabited atoll should provide a lot of sailing fun. Away from mass tourism, Maupiti is located about 25 nm west of Bora Bora and is one of the most intact islands of the archipelago. The only very narrow and shallow passe Onoiau in the south is considered practicable only with less than 1.5 m swell and 15 kn wind. The beautiful lagoon, mostly unsurveyed, is dotted with coral reefs. A fairway leads to the ferry dock, a concrete pier with storage shed and gas station, then you can carefully approach Pauma and moor at the buoys laid out. There are more buoys at the motu Pitiahe, where there is also a protection zone for manta rays. If you allow yourself a rest day, you can explore Maupiti by bike or on foot. A breathtaking panoramic view rewards the ascent to the island's summit. Witnesses of the past are the marae Vaiahu, the petroglyphs in the valley of Haranae or the tombs on the motu Pae'ao, which has great coral gardens and promises great swimming and snorkeling.

Tahiti - French Society Islands: Price list

Tahiti - French Society Islands îles sous le vent et îles du vent